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There is a cold and rainy city called Seattle, which is located in Washington State in the U.S.  I might have thought that living in such a place would prepare me for the cold and rainy city of Dublin.  I might have thought wrong.  I found myself waking up around 5AM most mornings, without anything to do until the hour of 7.  Walking without shelter for hours at a time in a Dublin where the sun has yet to rise will remind one of that time they forgot their windbreaker on a hike above the frost-line in the Olympics.

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Dublin is littered with old churches, angry youth, monuments to fine artists, pubs with gilded signage, and emigrant workers from all over our world.  I enjoy cosmopolitan cities because I always feel like I fit in while touring there.  In a homogeneous place like Kiev or Bizerte, a foreigner can be a point of fascination with the natives; like an exotic hominid walking among his human betters.  French, Mexican, German, Mozambican, Brazilian, and Canadian permit-workers and other visitors give Dublin an almost Istanbul-like feel.

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Dublin combines the hustle of New York City with the literary tradition and vision of Ljubljana, the flat expanse of Rome with the confused streets of Brussels.  It is a delightful and unpredictable mix of tradition and modern influences.  It does not bear its scars openly, but the motif of suffering is an inescapable part of Irish identity.  It is a place of music, poetry, desperation, heart-break, genius and faith.

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